What is a belay device. If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device.

What is a belay device. Today, the auto belay devices that you see in many rock climbing gyms are made for climbers and have stringent safety standards. Jan 3, 2024 · GriGri vs ATC Belay Device: What’s The Difference? What is an ATC? The ATC climbing device, which stands for Air Traffic Control, is a tube-style belay device, usually with two holes and a plastic-wrapped loop of braided wire connected to the underside. I'm going to explain how they are made and why do some of them have two holes. What is a belay device? A belay device is a piece of climbing equipment that is used by the belayer (the person managing the rope) to control the climber's rope and to act as a brake if the climber falls - stopping them hitting Jun 28, 2018 · Belay is the primary safety system used to protect people while at height. 5 to 11 mm. There are many different types of belay devices available, so it’s important to choose one that is compatible with your climbing style and the type of rope you’re using. Feb 22, 2020 · The belay device you choose to use will depend on personal preference and the type of climbing you do. Oct 1, 2021 · The Air Traffic Controller is the classic climbing belay device that most climbers have used at some point. In climbing, a belayer holds a lead climber’s rope and feeds it out as the leader advances upward. Knowing which belay device to use for every occasion and how to operate the device properly is key for safety and success when it comes to climbing ropes. There is a wide range of belay systems on the market and picking the right one is a critical decision that influences operations, efficiencies, risk, and superivsion. Here, we review and recommend the best assisted-braking belay devices for rock climbing. In the gym or at the crag, it makes belaying easier with cam-assisted blocking. Black Diamond’s most tried and true belay device was named the ATC to facetiously draw the connection between a falling climber and an aircraft trying to land at the airport. How to pass a belay certification? Direct belay – this is the recommended method by climbing schools today Redirected belay – this is the method used for many years and is still common today Indirect belay These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is done. The belayer wears the harness and attaches the belay device to it using the carabiner. May 5, 2025 · Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Mar 21, 2024 · Are there reasons to use one belay device over another? This post explores the different climbing situations and how they relate to belay devices. Nov 14, 2024 · Belay devices are essential for climbing safety and efficiency. Dynamic belay devices Dynamic belay devices are so called, because they enable dynamic belaying without the involvement of the body. What is a climbing descender and what is it used for? The belay/descender device is a crucial component in the belay chain for both climbing and mountaineering. It feeds slack with ease, securely catches lead falls, and securely auto-blocks when belaying a follower from above on multi-pitch routes. Are you taking a belay test soon and wondering how to pass your belay certification? Learning how to belay is an important skill for any climber. The climbing rope is threaded into the belay device and secured to the belay loop of the belayer’s harness with a carabiner. Belay device, a full history Vertical caving terminology and methods > Ladders, climbs and older techniques Belay device, belaying device, belay, belay plate, Sticht plate, stitch plate, ATC, ABD A very basic ATC belay device, and an auto-locking GriGri. It's an ideal device for belaying both leaders and top-ropers, either sport or Jan 4, 2021 · Auto-belay devices are designed as circular tools that can be easily mounted to the uppermost part of a climbing wall. Aug 7, 2025 · In order to belay safely, learn how to setup your belay device and practice the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) system. Compact and lightweight, it can be used with single ropes from 8. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. The belay device takes most of the load so your partner doesn’t have to. We’re going to break down the world of belay devices, explaining what they are, how they work, and what makes each one unique. Belay devices are only used while top-rope climbing or lead climbing, indoors and outdoors, and are not used while bouldering. Belay techniques are an essential component of rock climbing and other vertical activities, serving as a critical safety measure for both climbers and belayers. It is designed for the gym or crag and is intended for all users. A device used by belayers to pull a lifeline through as a climber climbs, and to stop it from moving when a climber falls. We also think that there is no point in getting a cheap belay device that you’ll soon grow out of. Exchanging gear, restacking the rope, eating, drinking, and whatever else you might need to handle at the belay stance can really burn away those precious daylight hours, so it’s crucial to be as efficient as possible. The TRUBLUE Auto Belay requires annual service based on national safety standards. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. Apr 26, 2022 · Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. A belay device functions like a brake on the climbing rope. Find out how to choose the best device for your needs and preferences. Reduce risk - Assisted Braking Devices (ABD) do not automatically catch a climber, but they do provide additional braking that can help stop a climber’s fall and hold the weight of the Mar 9, 2016 · Let’s take a look at the more complex of the 2 styles, the cam-style, and break down how this style of belay device works. Belay devices are also used for rappelling down a cliff, something you may do from time to time. Jun 12, 2024 · A belay device is an essential piece of climbing equipment that allows a belayer to control the rope, therefore ensuring the climber’s protection against fall. It’s simple design made its debut in 1993, quickly becoming the most popular belay device on the market. But have you ever stood in a gear shop, staring at a wall of belay devices, feeling completely lost? You’re not alone! Choosing the right one can be tricky. It is most well known for its assisted-braking cam feature that adds security when the climber falls. You can’t climb with a partner without a belay device, which will help you control the rope for the climber as they ascend. Direct belay – this is the recommended method by climbing schools today Redirected belay – this is the method used for many years and is still common today Indirect belay These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is done. Jan 4, 2024 · Learn about the 5 main styles of belay devices for climbing, from tube to assisted braking, and their pros and cons. This type of device also includes "guide-style" belay devices, such as the seminal Black Diamond ATC Guid e or the Petzl Reverso, which can also act as Aug 6, 2024 · Lead Despite advances in auto belay devices, using a traditional belay device with a human belaying partner is still seen as the safest and best alternative. These techniques involve the proper use of ropes, harnesses, and belay devices to ensure that a falling climber can be safely caught and lowered to the ground. In the event of a fall, expected or unexpected Belay devices use friction created by a bend in the rope to catch falls and lower climbers. It is equipped with an ergonomic handle that provides a smooth and comfortable descent for the climber. Belay devices come in various designs but generally serve the same purpose: to control Nov 6, 2022 · One of the climbing market’s most famous and trusted belay devices is the Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller or ATC. It is a tube style belay device without any special teeth for functionality to assist in braking. The Sticht belay plate can be found in second hand stores and on the racks of some very old climbers. The ATC is a belay device used by a person on the ground – the belayer – to manage the rope attached to the climber and catch Feb 15, 2024 · Tube Devices with Guide Mode Guides and multi-pitch climbers are the main users of this feature and they tend to prefer to carry a tube style device with guide mode. However, three main types of devices exist: tubular belay devices, assisted braking belay devices, and the figure 8. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Belay device considerations Whether you're climbing indoors or heading outside, a belay device is a must-have bit of kit. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore Dec 22, 2023 · In this article, I’ll briefly discuss the evolion of belaying and belay devices overtime, talk about some of the most common belay devices on the market, including thier pros and cons, and then share my unsolicited advice to help you deploy the right belay device at the right time. They’re designed to arrest a climber's fall and manage the rope during ascent or descent. When the climber reaches the top, or if they fall, the device automatically catches the climber and slowly lowers them to the ground. In the modern day, most climbers use a variety of gear to belay, notably Mar 12, 2025 · The Petzl NEOX solves the critical issue with most assisted braking belay devices — unwanted rope locking when feeding slack. It involves a system of ropes, harnesses, and belay devices that allow one… Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. Here are our best belay device picks! Dec 22, 2022 · The Petzl GriGri Belay Device The Petzl Grigri is a legendary belay device. “To belay” is a term with nautical origins that involves securing a rope around another object, for example, a cleat, to stop it from moving. May 29, 2025 · Ever watched a climber confidently ascend a wall, their rope held taut by a small device? That’s a belay device in action! It’s the unsung hero of climbing, keeping climbers safe. Then embark on a short summary of how they work, where they work Today I'm going to answer a few questions about belay devices. The device, plus the belayer’s quick “braking hand” (which locks off the free end of the rope), helps keep tension on the rope and helps protect the climber at the other end. 3 ounces, it's also light and affordable Belaying is an essential skill in the world of climbing, serving as the cornerstone of climber safety. Feb 3, 2022 · When using assisted-braking belay devices for a rope solo, there is always the added risk that the device could jam, fail to lock correctly, or cross-load the carabiner, as it’s not always in Jul 24, 2024 · Can I use a lead climbing belay device for top-roping? Most devices made for lead climbing can also serve as top-roping devices. Jun 26, 2023 · The basic equipment needed for belaying includes a climbing harness, a belay device, a locking carabiner, and a climbing rope. It’s very light, and it can be used for rappelling as well. In this article, we will delve into the world of belay techniques Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. Learn the basics of top rope belaying, including gear, setup, safety checks and procedures, plus the PBUS method and how to lower a climber. There are two primary categories that belay devices fall under: either non-assisted braking, or assisted braking. These belay devices feature 2 slots for your rope, allowing you to belay, rappel, or climb using a two-rope system. Suggested use of the small end as a belay device is very questionable. Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. The higher the braking force of the belay device, the less manual force the belayer needs. A figure 8 (sometimes just referred to as an 8) is used in conjunction with a climbing harness and locking carabiner to control a belayed climber's descent Jul 24, 2025 · Concise belay devices reviews tailored to your needs. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. You’ll find out exactly what belay devices are, including a quick overview of each type of belay device by category. These are the types of belay devices that you're most like to see around the crag. A belay device is an essential piece of climbing equipment that allows a belayer to control the rope, therefore ensuring the climber's protection against fall. Like the ATC XP, it also has grooves to increase friction for a belay. The belay loop is also the place where we connect ourselves to devices May 19, 2022 · If you need a belay device to rappel, we've got you! We dig into the different types of devices out there and which ones are best for each rap type! Jul 16, 2014 · Belay transitions can be the real time-suck of multi-pitch climbing. They vary in price, ease of use, safety features, and level of assistance with braking. See full list on rei. The belay line is a vital part of the belaying process and the way it works varies depending on what belay style and device are being used. Belay device is a tool by which the person providing belay (belayer) controls the rope during fall arrest of the climber. With all the different styles of belay devices on the market, knowing the unique uses and characteristics and limitations of each will help you select the right device for your specific adventure. Attached to the harness, this ‘guide tube’ belay device can be also used to belay from the ground or rappel from above like any other tube device, which makes it one of the more versatile pieces of kit climbers can carry A belay device is a metal tube that you feed a climbing rope through, used with a screwgate carabiner, in order to belay a rock climber. There are three main types of belay devices, the tubular ATC, the auto-locking belay device and the semi-assisted belay devices. A belay device is a mechanical device that is attached to the belayer’s harness and is used to take in the slack rope. Oct 8, 2018 · Belay devices allow you to provide a controlled lower and stop a fall with minimal effort because of friction and tight angles whether its a passive or active device. Here are our in-depth reviews. The ATC Guide has an additional attachment point. Belay Devices be·lay: /bəˈlā/ : to fix (a rope) around a cleat, rock, pin, or other object, to secure it. As such, choosing the right belay device is Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking belay device, which means it can be used as both a traditional tube device and an assisted braking device when belaying the leader. The ATC is a belay device used by a person on the ground – the belayer – to manage the rope attached to the climber and catch Jun 12, 2024 · In the world of climbing, the safety of the climber hangs, quite literally, on the efficiency and reliability of their belay device. Correct belaying methods allow a belayer to hold the entire weight of the climber with relatively little force and easily arrest falls. Belay device therefore facilitates the fall arrest of the climber. These are life safety devices and should be inspected regularly based on the manufacturer's instructions. It allows the climber’s upward progress and abseil descent to be controlled by regulating the speed of the rope passing through it. A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. Many climbing gyms will ask to see your belay certification or do a test before you are allowed to belay. Maintenance and Servicing Maintenance is an important part of auto belay ownership. com Dec 16, 2022 · What’s a Belay Device? A belay device is climbing equipment that gives a belay to a climber. They come with a built-in lanyard, fitted through a special mechanism that automatically picks up the slack. While there are many brand names on the market, the most common belay systems used… Jan 12, 2017 · In top rope and lead climbing, the belay line is a rope and provides the same "safety net" function as in the auto belay, but the rope is controlled by the belayer at the ground level. Nov 2, 2021 · A belay device is like a little pulley made of aluminium or alloy that allows your partner to add quick, sudden tension to the rope by locking off the rope so that if you fall, you won’t go far. For that reason, traditional belay devices are still used in competitive lead climbing. It's what controls the rope while you belay or abseil—and more importantly, it's what catches a fall. Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. You will likely spot a TRUBLUE auto belay system or a Perfect Descent auto belay device in your local gym. An Italian hitch Jul 25, 2023 · Is the Petzl GriGri the best belay device right now? In this review, a professional climbing guide reviews this star device that changed May 30, 2023 · The belay fundamentals are nearly identical between a tube-style device and many of the ABDs offered today, so the skills taught are still transferable. While the ATC and ATC XP are tubular aperture belay devices, the ATC Guide is an aperture-style self-braking belay device. That said, certain belay devices are optimized explicitly for one style over the other, so users must understand the device's design intentions and constraints before using it in a different context. Feb 12, 2024 · When looking for a rappel device for your next climb, be sure to consult this list. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri is an active assisted-braking device that performs well in every belaying and lowering task, earning our highest honor as the best belay device on the market. What Is a Non-Assisted Braking Device? Non-assisted braking devices require the belayer to keep their hand on the brake end of the rope and will only catch the climber if their hand remains Nov 22, 2021 · What is belay device used for? A belay device acts as a brake on the climbing rope by applying friction to it. What is the best belay device for rappelling? The advice for rappelling follows the advice for canyoneering- the best device allows for multiple friction levels and a way to stop and go hands-free. The belay device; an essential item for sport climbing, trad climbing, alpine climbing and mountaineering. The Evolution of Belaying and Belay Devices Overtime Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. Sep 1, 2025 · Choosing the wrong device can lead to frustration, fumbling, and even dangerous situations. This guide covers the main types of belay devices, how they work, and which one might be right for you. It’s one of the most important Mar 17, 2022 · The basics behind the Petzl GriGri, one of climbing's most popular belay devices. This allows a belayer to belay – we are responsible for controlling the amount of slack in the rope, holding our fellow climber’s weight, or providing a ‘catch’ in case of a fall. Because we believe the best belay device is not the best for everyone. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. One of the most ubiquitous cam-style belay devices is the Petzl Grigri. Thanks to introduction of belay devices the belaying The belay device is an essential piece of gear in the climbing world, ensuring we stay safe as we conquer new heights. You want a device that’s reliable, easy to use, and fits your climbing style. Feb 15, 2024 · Tube Devices with Guide Mode Guides and multi-pitch climbers are the main users of this feature and they tend to prefer to carry a tube style device with guide mode. In its simplest form, a belay consists of a rope that runs from a climber to another person (the belayer) who can stop the climber's fall. We'll cover how to set up your belay device and perform a standard top rope belay. This article covers some of today’s most common styles of belay devices on the market. But before learning about each method, let’s first talk about belay devices. The rope, which is connected to the climber, is threaded through the belay device. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). 00:00 Intro02:07 Tube Style Devices06:00 Assi Jul 25, 2023 · Is the Petzl GriGri the best belay device right now? In this review, a professional climbing guide reviews this star device that changed May 30, 2023 · The belay fundamentals are nearly identical between a tube-style device and many of the ABDs offered today, so the skills taught are still transferable. Belaying your follower (or followers) with an auto-blocking device set up directly on the anchor allows The device disperses the climber’s weight at the anchor point, thereby allowing a relatively lighter belayer to belay a heavier climber without the use of weight bags. Weighing in at 2. It also helps you catch them if they should fall, and you can easily lower them down from the crag or climbing wall when they’re finished. It is an essential device for climbing safety. Feb 22, 2020 · An automatic belay device (AKA auto belay) takes up slack as you climb, thereby negating the need for a belayer on the ground. In this article you’ll find a no-nonsense summary of the different types of belay device out there. Mar 16, 2022 · Belaying may be the most critical skill you need to participate in the sport of rock climbing safely. Attached to the harness, this ‘guide tube’ belay device can be also used to belay from the ground or rappel from above like any other tube device, which makes it one of the more versatile pieces of kit climbers can carry Belaying is an essential skill in the world of climbing, serving as the cornerstone of climber safety. Some (the Sticht plates not the old climbers) were equipped with a coiled spring wire to keep the carabiner away from the plate so the rope could be paid out more easily. It’s not just about having a belay device; it’s about having the right one that suits your climbing style and situation. High friction rope position Low friction rope position This device utilizes a large surface area in contact with a climbing rope to provide sufficient friction along with the proper technique to be used as a belay device or for rappelling. Tubular Style Belay Device The classic. Apr 24, 2024 · A belay device is a piece of equipment used in rock climbing to manage the rope while belaying, a technique where one climber ensures the safety of another by controlling the rope. Does it need an introduction? Designed for lead and top rope climbing, GRIGRI is the gold standard for belay devices. Belay devices are essential tools in climbing, used to control the rope during belaying. What is a climbing belay device? A climbing belay device is a tool used by climbers to control the rope holding a climber in case the climber falls and/or when the climber needs to be lowered. The airport’s air traffic controller controls the aircraft’s safe landing. First Ascent has a Grigri 2 on every top rope in the gym, and this author believes it is among the easiest and safest belay devices on the market. Sounds pretty simple right? But how does it take up the slack, you ask? Aug 3, 2023 · What Does a Belay Loop Do? The belay loop on a harness provides a place for attaching a belay device and thereby the rope to the belayer. The primary function of the descender is to provide enough friction to slow or stop the rope in the Jul 29, 2019 · “What belay device is that?” was the question that popped up from my friend @sammyspindel on a short Instagram story clip of my anchor while belaying a client up the last pitch of Upper… Belaying is a critical part of climbing safety. It is especially important to belay lead climbers dynamically, so they are not stopped too abruptly in case of a fall. It provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest, just like active-assisted brake devices. It increases the friction rate of the rope resulting in reducing the amount of total force which the belayer has to hold by the strength of his/hers arms. By the end of this post, you’ll understand the key If you want to top rope climb with a partner you need to know how to tie into a harness and belay with a belay device! There is no substitute for proper instruction from someone qualified to teach you how to properly belay, but this article should help you freshen up your skills so you feel confident in taking a belay test! Aug 24, 2018 · Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever. Styles of Belay Device: Tube Mar 22, 2021 · Welcome to Belay Devices: The Basics Part of a series of articles and blog posts with simple questions to aid beginners and those interested in giving climbing a go. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned climber, understanding the options available and how to use them properly will make your climbing experiences safer and more enjoyable. Aug 26, 2021 · ATC The ATC is virtually the most basic belay device you can find these days, if not the cheapest as well. Learn how to choose the best belay devices for climbing, including key factors for selecting belay equipment and climbing belay devices to ensure safety and performance. Aug 5, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. There are so many types, from simple plates to fancy . Perfect for Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber… Black Diamond ATC Guide Black Diamond has another belay device known as the ATC Guide. If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. That’s where this guide comes in. Similarly, in the Sep 14, 2020 · A beginner belay device that has safety features like an assisted brake or teeth can really help when catching a fall or when those small mistakes happen. It costs very little and last a long time. jp yn17 sx6zp2 pwn mgtql vz vk emkphjjzp fctp jno